Ask Sara
If you’re at a place where you need some direction, you can ask me. However, please keep in mind that I am a very busy girl. I often get emails from people when the answer is very clearly on the site, which frustrates me. Please make sure to double-check the frequently asked questions (which is easy, because they’re searchable) and look over any relevant informational pages to see if your answer is already somewhere on the site. If you don’t see your answer anywhere, you can ask me directly, but please be patient as I don’t always have time to write back immediately (although I do try!).
Please keep in mind that you are asking me to take time out of my schedule to answer your question. Please take time out of your schedule to make sure your question makes sense. For example, messages like: “hullo my names kiki and i have a rat and shes sick but i dont no whats wrongg wih her how do i know i cant get her to do enythin? i want to punt her in with her brother but she is sick and there brothers thanks,” I am unlikely to respond because I have no idea what is being asked.
Also, it’s also a good idea to use common sense: If your rat looks bad, is bleeding or isn’t eating or drinking, see a vet ASAP–don’t wait for me to write back.
That being said, I DO enjoy getting your questions and I love being able to help people. So please, feel free to drop me a line if you need some help. 
Please fill out the form below, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. If, for some reason, the form below doesn’t work, or if you’d like to keep it for your records (but PLEASE do not add me to your mass mailing list), my email address is: questions [at] fatratcentral.com, and my name is Sara!
on August 5th, 2006 at 11:00 pm
Dear Sara, I can’t find the answers to the “Dear Sara” questions. Are they under FAQ?
From,
confused
on September 10th, 2006 at 8:45 pm
MY RAT IS BLEEDING FROM HIS NOSE!! HE HAS NO ENERGY
on October 17th, 2006 at 1:41 am
My rats nose bleeds too but he sneezes all the time. I had him on meds but they didnt do anything for him. So I dont know where to go from there.
on December 22nd, 2006 at 4:37 am
tiana my rats the same and im worried because no1s in! we took him 2 the vets because he was sneezing and they gve him some meds but there not working and hes got sneezes and noe bleed!
on January 2nd, 2007 at 11:02 pm
Hi Vanessa, Tiana and Rachel: We’ve had the same problem. It’s not blood from your rat’s nose - it’s a runny nose just like a human’s. Clean his cage super well with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Instead of putting more new bedding in we were successful with using a flat double layer of paper towel for a couple of days. We could monitor the nose secretions and replace it easily. Also with a really clean cage, clean water and food feeders, and no dusty bedding, put his cage in a bathroom and generate steam with a hot shower. Do this a couple of times a day for 15 minutes at least. After a couple of days of this, you should be able to put his normal bedding in and return his cage to the normal location. Continue to keep his cage really clean.
I hope this helps!
on March 3rd, 2007 at 12:16 am
Sara please help !!!
A couple months ago I lost two of my three rats (all females) My Boyfriend was in the hospital b/c of an almost fatal heart attack. So I stayed at his house for three days taking care of things. One of those were taking care of our 3 female rats, Rose, Misty, and Cookie. They lived in a huge wooden cage my boyfriend happily built them that sat in the back sun porch.
I closed all of the sliding doors in the sun room on one of the chilliest nights of September. I woke up around 2:00pm the next day after being up till 6:00am. I stepped out into the sun room and was hit by the unbearable heat as I opened the first door. I ran to the girls cage … but it was two late. My two girls Rose and Cookie were dead … misty barely made it.
I was devastated, and to this day I still kick myself. Misty passed away just this passed Christmas eve. Long story short, I couldn’t take the loss so I got another little female baby rat and named her Rose Mary. She is now about two and a half months old and the biggest pain in the butt. I love animals, but I can’t take it anymore. She’s bit me, my boyfriend and his son. I’ve tried washing my hands, but it doesn’t seem to help. We hold her 15 to 20 minutes a day and yet she still acts as if she has been abused and has seen us for the first time. We are looking to get her a female friend. I need to know the best way to introduce them. We’re also thinking of a baby rat, instead of a full grown adult rat so she can grow up with us, if that makes sense. Please help. E-mail me with some advise if you can.
Thank you for your time
Joanna
on March 3rd, 2007 at 12:30 am
Hi Sara it’s Joanna again,
I just read your “Trust Training Rats” and it helped answer my questions about getting her more comfortable with me and my boyfriend. I would still like to know what is the best possible way to introduce to a new rat (female).
Thanks again for your time
on September 8th, 2007 at 12:44 pm
Hi Joanna,
The introduction process has several steps and the time required for each may vary. The easiest pairing will be two young rats, while the most difficult introduction is between two adult males, especially if they aren’t neutered. On the other hand, as rats start to age they can mellow out and be more accepting of new roommates. A young rat is the best choice for a new roommate for an adult male, but the newcomer should be at least six weeks old. This is because adult males will sometimes kill strange baby rats younger than this.
When introducing rats, you should have two cages so the new rat can have his own cage at first. (The second cage can be the resident rat’s travel cage.) Never just plop a new rat in the resident rats’ cage because the residents will always defend their territory.
During the introduction process, you should only advance to the next step if there is no sign of aggression within 30 minutes. A resident rat will express aggression by puffing up his fur, arching his back, and swinging his body sideways at the newcomer. If you see this type of behavior, remove the new rat quickly to prevent an attack. Use care when picking up an aggressive rat as they will sometimes bite. Pick them up with a towel. Or if need to quickly break up a fight, you can pick up the aggressor by the base of his tail. If an introductory session results in aggression, try again later, or go back a step.
When introducing a new rat to a group of rats, usually only the dominant resident rat will be aggressive toward the newcomer at first. This is the dominant rat’s “job”. Once the new rat is accepted by the dominant rat, the others may show some aggression in turn, but it usually won’t be as severe.
The Introduction Process
The first step is to place the cages near each other so the rats can see and smell each other. Place wire cages far enough apart so the rats can’t reach through the bars to the other cage, or the result may be bitten toes or tail. The next step is to switch the rats to each other’s cage, even briefly. This allows them first-hand experience with each other’s scent. You may have to do this several times.
The next step is to introduce the rats in neutral territory, which should be someplace where the resident rats are not used to playing. The bathtub is a good place. This will give them a chance to become acquainted without the residents feeling the need to defend their territory. Another technique that can work is to take the rats for a car ride in a neutral carrier.
The next step is to let them interact in an area where the residents are used to playing. Watch them carefully, because this is where some fighting may break out. It may also help if you put the new rat(s) in your lap along with the other rats. By holding everyone at the same time, it may let the residents know that YOU have already accepted the new rat.
The final step is to clean the larger cage out completely and rearrange the furnishings so it appears to be a new cage. Trim the back toenails of the rats to minimize scratching in a scuffle. Put vanilla extract or perfume on all the rats to make them smell the same. Then put the rats in this cage. The best time to do this is in the morning when rats tend to be sleepy.
The dominant resident will probably sniff the newcomer and then “attack” him, forcing him over on his back. If you’ve followed the introduction process correctly, don’t rush to take the new rat out. Instead, carefully observe the fight. Observe whether the resident rat is showing the raised hair, arched back, and sideways approach that are signs of aggression. If so, remove the newcomer, but if not, leave them together. The resident rat must establish his or her dominance and it’s normal for them to “beat up” the newcomer. Just because the new rat is squeaking doesn’t mean it’s getting hurt. This is just a rat’s way of saying “I give up”. As long as you have followed the introduction process step by step, and as long as the resident rat isn’t showing the signs of agression, you should let the fight run it’s course. If you take the new rat out, you’ll prolong this adjustment phase.
However, if it appears that the new rat is being injured, or if the attack seems especially vicious, then of course you should remove him from the cage. But in most cases the “fight” will be over quickly. The dominant resident rat will probably beat up the newcomer frequently for the first few days, and you shouldn’t interfere as long as there are no injuries. But the first attack is usually the worst, and before long the rats will typically become the best of friends, sleeping together and grooming each other.
One of my members also suggested something that worked well for her. She smeared all her rats with pudding! After they got it all licked off each other, they had bonded! But this was a group of rats who had lived in the same house for a while, not brand new rats. You would still need to go through all they preliminary steps first.
Because rats are individuals with their own personalities, occasionally two rats will take a dislike to each other and constantly fight. In some cases, this means the pecking order is changing and the fighting will stop eventually. Neutering any males involved will usually solve the problem. (After a male is neutered, it can take up to 8 weeks for their behavior to change.) However, if these fights continue for more than several weeks, such rats should be separated permanently.
Hope this works ,
Samantha>>Rat Girl any more qustions go to www.petratscanada.com/ratcare.htm Good Luck
on September 19th, 2007 at 5:02 pm
Hi! My rat is having nosebleeds and her eyes sometimes get a little bloody…..and she sneezes a lot! Is there anythin i can do? Can you help me?
on October 8th, 2007 at 1:14 am
If it’s just a runny nose Ellie then please tell me why It is red in color!??
on October 20th, 2007 at 7:40 am
Can someone help please!
I have 2 Pink-eyed-white boys. I got them from Petco on August 29th, 2007. One is really old and mean. His fur is unstraight and messy. He bites me a lot and it causes blood. The other one is nicer but still bites hard. I thought male rats didn’t bite. My hands are always clean and I NEVER hurt them. I’m not sure what to do? Can you Sara or any one else tell me what’s wrong. I want to be able to hold them without getting my hands bitten,
Thanks for your time,
Aishah
on December 8th, 2007 at 11:48 am
Discount Cosmetics…
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on December 17th, 2007 at 12:27 am
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on February 6th, 2008 at 12:46 pm
Waterless Car Washing - Does it Work?…
There has been a lot of buzz circulating around lately for “waterless car wash” products. If you’re not familiar with how they work, let me first explain. Essentially you spray a small panel of your car with a waterless car wash formula, let it sit …
on March 7th, 2008 at 12:16 am
HELP!!
I have a rat, I saved him from an old friends python who did not take any interest in the rat for more than 20 days. The rat was traumatized and I couldn’t help but feel for him. I took him home with me, I’ve had him for almost 2.5 years. He is not a pet, as I don’t interact with him due to his nasty nature (probably because he was traumatized), he bites and snaps at you. In the last two weeks he is showing blood around the eyes that almost pusses and has caused his one eye to crust shut.used a qtip with warm water to clean his eyes and he was able to open it, however the blood does not seem to be stopping but I can’t see where it’s coming from. I think it might be from inside the eye. The base of his nose also has some blood. There are no tumors present on his body, he is not eating and drinking well at all and is very lathargic and allows me to pick him up now. I don’t want to see him suffer and may have to put him down, but if it’s something simple that I can do for him, special food, etc. I’d love to know. Please advise your personal opinion. Thank you!
on March 11th, 2008 at 9:58 pm
Has anyone had any expierence with there rats having diahrrea? She has not shown any signs or syptoms of feeling sick or having an upset stomach. I have not fed her anything out of the ordinary, aand her sister is just fine. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks
on April 26th, 2008 at 8:39 am
HI.
My rat Charity has like dried blood around one of her eyes. Can you please tell me what it is and if I need to take her to the vet? Thanks
on May 6th, 2008 at 3:46 pm
Hi,
My boyfriend’s 2 female pet rats escaped from their cage into his garage this morning. They might still be in there (we’re looking for them nonstop), but we’re assuming they have got through the small hole in the garage door and gone into the wild.
My question is, will they be okay? They were bought from a pet store. Will they know how to find food and water, and which animals to avoid? (He also have 2 ferrets are the rats were NEVER afraid of them). Will they be okay in the wild?
Thank you.
on May 11th, 2008 at 10:20 am
Hi Sara,
My rat Isabelle was out free ranging and she ended up eating a hornet. I was wondering if this kind of thing is dangerous to her? She did not get stung and she seems fine, but I just want to make sure….
Thank you
-Allie B
on June 8th, 2008 at 11:24 am
If there is red stuff around your rats eyes or nose it means your rats eyes have been running. “Rats have a red pigment called porphyrin that is present in their tears. If eyes water it can be deposited around eyes and nose (can also be spread to arms, neck, and ears). These deposits are sometimes mistaken for blood. A small amount is no problem. But large deposits of porphyin may indicate eye prob. or respitory infection. “
on July 1st, 2008 at 12:21 pm
To anyone who can help,
I was wondering if there was a way to mark similar looking rats so that I know the difference? It would be a huge help espesially since I plan on having two females and one male to breed. Also, I don’t want them to breed a whole lot so I want a cage for the girls, a cage for the boys, and a cage for breeding them in. Will this work if we sell the baby boys?
Thanks Kimsy
on July 14th, 2008 at 8:12 am
Kimsy, you do know that they can breed up to 19 rat’s you really need to do your research as well on breeding. It isn’t something you can just pick up. You need to breed for health. Also people want rats that have recessive traits. You should not get your rats from a pet store, But A breeder. And if you only get one male then it will be lonely. You would also need a cage for mom and babies.
on August 16th, 2008 at 10:45 am
I got my first pet Rat about 12years ago. I have had a lot of rats since. The best advice I can offer is DONT USE PINE OR CEADER BEADING this WILL CAUSE UPPER RESPITORY INFECTION. I like to use shreded paper. The little ones love it, they love to make there own nests out of it, and because of its shape thay can actuly build little homes out of it. The other big help is that its cheper, I bought a paper shreder (one time coust) and havent bought bedding since. Also havent had a single health problem (with the eciption of a cupple alergic reactions to food) since I switched. So to all those bleeding nosed rats out ther get them healed up then switched off pine or ceder bedding.
on August 19th, 2008 at 12:32 am
okay i have 2 girl rats who ijust introduced to not only 6 cats but 2 new boy rats. one of my rats attacked 2 of my cats and when the boy rat tried to play with her she attacked him. well he bit her toe and she was bleeding alot.she doesnt seem to notice that she was ever hurt but now she hides under the blankets and wouldnt eat the carrot i tried to feed her. does this have anything to do with the fight between her and the boy or just because ive been playing with her and she just might be tired? im really worried.
on September 18th, 2008 at 3:20 pm
to syd,
rats are good pets to have and looking after them is a very serious commitment. you will need a cage for them the bigger the better. thay like toys so a tube to lay in a hamock of some sort chew stick are a major faverate thing my rats have (all 6). i use paper based cat litter its easy to clean out and lasts for about 4 days. the food is simple rat food from pet stores, monkey nuts for a treat, other good treats are carrots, dog biscuits and fruit (non acidic)
as for girls v boys i have girls and have had no problems and thay don’t smell as much. boys are just as nice. the key to sucessful rat owners is regular contact. mine are out for at least 3 hours a day. make sure there is somone to look after rats when you are away/holidays etc.
vet care is also important.
good luck hope you get on well i’m here if you need more help.
laine